Sew 3/8” seam.

Sew 2^nd row of stitching inside other stitching close to first, stitching carefully around oval area and corners near heel. Turn fabric pieces over to make sure you catch both fabric pieces.

Trim close to second stitching especially around half oval shape and 45 degree corners. Be careful to leave some fabric on the seam so it does not split when it is turned right side out.

 Snip corners near heel close to stitching but do not go through it.

Turn uppers right side out.

Tip:  It's easier to start pressing around toe area first.

Make sure corners are poked out as far as possible.

Place inner sole (lining) on top of inner upper (lining) RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER. By “eyeing” it, match up their top and bottom centers.

Pin together top centers of sole and upper. 

Starting from top, pin inner sole (lining) to inner upper (lining), RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER by manipulating fabric (without pulling or stretching) so edges correspond with each other. Work your way down as shown.

Tip:  Use a lot of pins and take turns pinning on both sides every several pins. Leave an opening at bottom where sides start to curve into heel.

Remove pins from top leaving enough room later to turn shoe right side out.

You may want to place pins as shown above as reminders not to sew there.

Sew using 1/2”. Be careful not to accidentally catch upper material while sewing.  Do not sew the openings closed at top or bottom.

On opening (toe area) sew narrow zig zag stitch on both layers separately. Increase stitch length to keep fabric from fraying.

Sewing Inner Heel

 Manipulate fabric with fingers; finish pinning heel of sole to upper while figuring out where back heel seam is.

Pin back heel seam.  Make sure the upper seams line up.

Baste back heel seam of inner upper (lining) at pinned area.

Make sure heel seam is in the right place by checking placement with inner sole.  

Sew back heel seam of inner upper. 

Stitch 2nd row next to first.

Trim close to stitching.

Pin inner sole to inner upper at heel.

Sew heel closed with inner upper (lining) towards top.  Make sure while sewing the upper fabric is flat and not crumpled up.

Tip:  Turn shoe over making sure you sewed on both fabric pieces correctly. 

Sew 2^nd row of stitching close to first row around perimeter of shoe lining.

Trim 1/4" from outside stitching. 

 Leave opening at top for turning.

Sewing in an Achilles Notch

An Achilles notch is a notched groove in the back of the heel collar.  It helps to assure a snug fit at the heel without irritation.

Measure from corners located at sides of heel towards toe of shoe for one of the following:

Infant's:  5/8"

Children's:  1"

Adult's:  1 1/2"

Pin 1/4" elastic.

Measure from corner towards toe for the other side of the shoe the same measurement mentioned above.

Place pin there. 

Tack elastic.

Sew using a medium zig zag stitch while pulling hard on elastic. 

Push up elastic towards top (seam that connects outer upper to inner upper) while sewing. 

Sew until you reach the pin on other side.

Tack, cut elastic.

Repeat most of the steps for constructing the outsole to outer upper pieces

as previously done for the lining.

Pin together sole to upper, leaving opening just at heel.

Sew ˝” seam leaving an opening at heel, not at top. 

Manipulate fabric with fingers; finish pinning heel of sole to upper while figuring out where back heel seam is.

Baste back heel seam of outer upper at pinned area.

Make sure heel seam is in the right place by checking placement with outer sole.  

Sew back heel seam of outer upper connecting it smoothly to the lining's back heel seam.  

Stitch 2nd row next to first.

Trim close to stitching.

Pin outer sole to outer upper at heel.

Sew heel closed with outer upper piece towards top.  Make sure while sewing the upper fabric is flat and not crumpled up.

Tip:  Turn shoe over making sure you sewed on both fabric pieces correctly. 

Sew 2^nd row of stitching completely around perimeter of shoe, close to first row. Trim 1/4" from outside stitching.

Turn right side out by stuffing shoe through toe opening in lining.

Stuff lining into outer and smooth out.

Try shoe on and make fitting adjustments if necessary. (You may want to alter your paper pattern at this point for future use).

.

Turn lining back out so it is on outside again. 

Hand stitch toe opening closed

At toe opening, where zig-zag stitches are, fold over a 1/2" on both lining pieces so they face each other. 

 Pin so zig zag stitches are hidden within the shoe.

Another View

Hand stitch lining closed.

Turn shoe right side out.

* * *

Repeat same steps for other shoe. 

If you'd like to design your shoes with some Ruffled Ribbons,

click here:

If you'd like some ideas for Trims and Embellishments,

click here:

Copyright 2007 by Renee Boley

All Rights Reserved.