Cut two straps as follows: 

Place ribbon (in area as shown above) behind leg and wrap around ankle/leg (shown below). 

Decide how many times you want to wrap it around leg and give additional room for a bow. Cut two pieces of ribbon that length.

Finish both ends of each ribbon with fray check or clear nail polish to prevent fraying. 

Pin ribbon to right side of outer upper fabric as shown above.

Close-up View

Repeat for other side.

Tack ribbon 1/8” inch from end of uppers.

.

Pin lining fabric right sides together, close to cut out center. 

Sew 3/8” seam.

Sew 2^nd row of stitching inside other stitching, close to first.  Stitch carefully around oval area and corners near heel. Turn fabric pieces over to make sure you catch both fabric pieces.

Trim close to second stitching especially around half oval shape and 45 degree corners. Be careful to leave some fabric on the seam so it does not split when it is turned right side out.

 Snip corners near heel close to stitching but do not cut through it. Avoid cutting the ribbons.

Turn uppers, right side out.

Pull on straps to have them come out as far as possible.

Press Flat.

Tip:  It's easier to start pressing around toe area first.

Place inner sole (lining) on top of inner upper (lining) RIGHT sides together. By “eyeing” it, match up their top and bottom centers.

Pin together top centers of sole and upper. 

Starting from top, pin inner sole (lining) to inner upper (lining) RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER by manipulating fabric (without pulling or stretching) so edges correspond with each other. Work your way down as shown.

Have ribbons stick out from bottom.

Tip:  Use a lot of pins and take turns pinning on both sides every several pins. Leave an opening at bottom where sides start to curve into heel.

Remove pins from top leaving enough room to later turn shoe right side out.

You may want to place pins (shown above) as reminders not to sew there.

Sew 1/2” seam.  Be careful not to accidentally catch the outer upper piece while sewing.  Do not sew the opening at top or bottom.

Sew at opening toe area a narrow zig-zag stitch on both layers separately. Increase stitch length to keep fabric from fraying.

Stuff ribbons inside.

Sewing Inner Heel

 Manipulate fabric with fingers; finish pinning heel of sole to upper while figuring out where back heel seam is.

Pin back heel seam.  Make sure the upper seams line up.

Baste back heel seam of inner upper (lining) at pinned area.

Make sure heel seam is in the right place by checking placement with inner sole.  

Sew back heel seam of inner upper. 

Stitch 2nd row next to first.

Trim close to stitching.

Pin inner sole to inner upper at heel.

Sew heel closed with inner upper (lining) towards top.  Make sure while sewing the upper fabric is flat and not crumpled up.

Tip:  Turn shoe over making sure you sewed on both fabric pieces correctly. 

Sew 2^nd row of stitching close to first row around perimeter of shoe lining.

Trim 1/4" from outside stitching. 

 Leave opening at top for turning.

Sewing in an Achilles Notch

An Achilles notch is a notched groove in the back of the heel collar.  It helps to assure a snug fit at the heel without irritation.

Measure from corners located at sides of heel towards toe of shoe for one of the following:

Infant's:  5/8"

Children's:  1"

Adult's:  1 1/2"

Pin 1/4" elastic.

Measure from corner towards toe for the other side of the shoe the same measurement mentioned above.

Place pin there. 

Tack elastic.

Sew using a medium zig zag stitch while pulling on elastic. 

Push up elastic towards top (seam that connects outer upper to inner upper) while sewing. 

Tip:  Be careful not to sew your straps accidentally. 

Sew until you reach the pin on other side.

Tack, cut elastic.

Repeat most of the steps for constructing the outsole to outer upper pieces

as previously done for the lining.

Pin together sole to upper, leaving opening just at heel.

Sew ˝” seam leaving an opening at heel, not at top. 

Manipulate fabric with fingers; finish pinning heel of sole to upper while figuring out where back heel seam is.

Baste back heel seam of outer upper at pinned area.

Make sure heel seam is in the right place by checking placement with outer sole.  

Sew back heel seam of outer upper connecting it smoothly to the lining's back heel seam.  

Stitch 2nd row next to first.

Trim close to stitching.

Pin outer sole to outer upper at heel.

Sew heel closed with outer upper piece towards top.  Make sure while sewing the upper fabric is flat and not crumpled up.

Tip:  Turn shoe over making sure you sewed on both fabric pieces correctly. 

Sew 2^nd row of stitching completely around perimeter of shoe, close to first row. Trim 1/4" from outside stitching.

Turn right side out by stuffing shoe through toe opening in lining.

Stuff lining into outer and smooth out.

Try shoe on and make fitting adjustments if necessary. (You may want to alter paper pattern at this point for future use.)

.

Turn lining back out so it is on outside again. 

Hand stitch toe opening closed

At toe opening, where zig-zag stitches are, fold over a 1/2" on both lining pieces so they face each other. 

 Pin so zig zag stitches are hidden within the shoe.

Another View

Hand stitch lining closed.

Turn shoe right side out.

* * *

Repeat same steps for other shoe. 

If you'd like to design your shoes with some Ruffled Ribbons,

click here:

If you'd like some ideas for Trims and Embellishments,

click here:

Introduction, Chapter One: Getting Started, Chapter Two:
The Sole Pattern, Chapter Three:  The Upper Pattern,
Chapter 4: Preparing To Sew, Chapter 5: Sewing (With
Ankle Ribbon Straps), Chapter 6: Sewing (Without Ankle
Ribbon Straps), Chapter 7: Ruffled Ribbon, Chapter 8:
Designing,  Conclusion
 

Copyright 2007 by Renee Boley

All Rights Reserved.