Step 1

 Cut out lining: Fold the fabric lining so it is double-layered. Lay both pattern pieces (upper and sole) on top of the fabric (on the bias if you’re using a woven fabric, or if you’re unsure). Pin and then cut out pattern pieces.

Step 2

Repeat Step 1 for fabric or leather you want to use for your outer sole and outer upper. 

Cut from the fusible fleece two pieces for each upper and sole pattern.

 You do not need to cut the fleece on the bias.

This is how many pieces you should have cut out: Four of the outer fabric, four of the lining fabric and four of the fusible fleece.

Preparing The Fabric

Tip:  We recommend, in addition to cutting the woven fabric on the bias,  sewing a row of stitching (stay stitching) an 1/8” from edge to avoid corners from fraying where the fabric is not on the bias.

Iron on the fusible fleece to the outsoles and outer uppers.  Make sure the glue is facing the material.

You'll need to apply fusible fleece to leather by ironing on fleece fabric.  You can not iron on leather.  Use caution being careful not to burn the fleece or leather as you'll need much more heat to apply. 

Trim off any extra fleece being careful not cut into fabric.

Tip:  It’s a good idea to make sure your fabric hasn’t stretched out of shape when ironing on the fusible fleece by placing the pattern pieces on top of cut out fabrics. Cut off any extra fabric.

Starting from bottom (heel) of upper pattern, cut out the center by precisely cutting on red lines. Do not cut half oval shape yet (blue line).

Fold pattern piece in half again vertically and cut out the half oval shape. Folding before cutting will ensure a more even half oval.

Place upper pattern piece over the WRONG SIDE of the corresponding inner upper (upper lining) fabric pieces. You'll know the correct one to piece together as the toe shape will match up.  Trace all along where you just cut including where the center line comes up from bottom.

Do the same for your other inner upper (upper lining) fabric piece.

Remove pattern paper and place with RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER your CORRESPONDING OUTER UPPER fabric piece underneath your inner upper (upper lining) you just traced.   Stack them in two piles exactly on top of each other. Pin all along outside and close to middle to make sure fabrics do not shift apart.

Cut out (with accuracy) the middle starting from line at heel. 

Repeat for other shoe.

If you wish to design your shoes with Ribbon Ankle Straps,

click here: