|
|
||
|
Names for the Parts of the Shoe
There are just a few terms you will need to become familiar with regarding the the names for the different parts of the shoe. These terms will be used continuously throughout this guide while you make the pattern and construct the shoe: "Outer Sole" or "Outsole"- The bottom, exposed sole of a shoe. "Outer Upper"- The upper or top part of the shoe that is exposed. "Inner Sole" or "Insole"- The interior bottom of the shoe which sits directly beneath the foot. Also referred to as the inner lining. "Inner Upper"- The interior upper part of the shoe or upper lining. "Throat"- The opening of a shoe from the ankle to the vamp. "Vamp"- The front of a shoe upper which covers the toes and foot.
Supplies Needed for Making Paper Patterns
Pattern Paper You will need paper for your pattern. You can use regular white paper, wax paper, or professional pattern paper. Use anything that does not rip too easily; something that you can mark on and cut out. Writing Utensil We use a pencil because there is sketching involved. Using this allows you to easily erase unnecessary markings which can be confusing.A Ruler with Inches
An "L" Shaped Ruler
Or any guide with a 90 degree angle. (Yes, a book works). Save on sewing supplies with Create For Less
Materials for Shoe Construction
Even if you are a seasoned sewer, we recommend making your first pair of shoes out of scrap fabric. Before using any good material, you must make sure the pattern you have made is just right, and you must also understand how the construction is done. We recommend that you wait until your pattern is made before purchasing the materials, because you’ll know exactly how much you’ll need. By this time you‘ll have your patterns at a precise guide.
Fabric for Outsole, Outer Upper, Inner Sole (lining) and Inner Upper (lining) You may choose to make the whole shoe out of the same material or use contrasting fabrics in any order. You may choose to do the sole out of suede while the outer upper is done in a beautiful brocade with a satin lining. Or you may choose to make them out of a really cute and fun cotton print to match an outfit you've made.
Woven Fabric The selection choices are endless when selecting a woven fabric. You'll need to remember, however, when buying and cutting this, it needs to be cut out on the bias (45 degree angle). This helps to keep it from unraveling.
Knit Fabric Knit can also be used but will need some stabilizing because it tends to stretch out of shape when ironing on the fusible fleece. The solution is pretty simple: Just place your pattern over the cut out fabric piece after the fusible fleece has been applied, and then trim off any excess fabric.
Leather Leather or suede can be used for the outer upper. You will need to use the suede side of leather for the outsole because otherwise leather will be too "grippy" while walking. The exception to this would be baby shoes. Most sewing machines have no problem sewing on thin leather or suede (kid, pig or calfskin) with the aide of leather needles, but if you‘ve never sewn on leather before with your machine, you‘ll need to check your manufacturer's instructions to be sure you don’t damage it. Matching Thread Your creation can only be as good as the materials you use. The thread is what holds it all together. If you don’t know for sure whether your thread is strong enough, try breaking it with your hands. If you can break it, it’s cheap. If it lints up a lot, it’s also cheap quality and will clog up your machine. You’re much better off paying a bit more to get good quality.
Fusible Fleece Fusible fleece is a quilt batting used for making baby blankets, wall quilts, place mats, home decor items, baby shoes, etc.. It be found in any major fabric store, usually, in the interfacing section.
Ribbon if Making Wrap Ankle Straps
We recommend ribbon widths as follows: For Infants shoes: ¼” to ½” Children’s shoes: 3/8”- 1 ¼“ Adult shoes: ½” - 1 ¼” Ribbon can be purchased either wired or unwired depending on the look you want to achieve. The benefit of wired ribbon is that it stays in a better bow and stays up on the lower leg better. A bit of care is needed, however, when using this. You’ll want to thread the wire through the ribbon a bit on the ends of the straps and snip off so the wire is not exposed (shown below).
Expose wire.
Snip wire. For infant shoes, moms will need to occasionally check this ribbon to make sure the wire is not showing which could scrape baby's skin. If you decide to use satin ribbon, we recommend double-faced satin ribbon (shiny satin on both sides) and not single-faced (shiny satin on one side and matte satin on the other).
1/16", 1/8”, or ¼” Elastic for Ruffled Ribbon 1/16" elastic for ribbon widths ¼” to ½” 1/8” elastic for ribbon widths ½” to 1” ¼” elastic for ribbon 1” or more Note: These elastic widths are recommended to make sure the elastic is hidden especially when the shoe is worn.
Fray Check (Product Bought in Fabric Store) or Clear Nail Polish Used to treat the ends of ribbon so they don‘t fray.
Trims and Embellishments Used: ribbons ribbon roses seed beads beads* buttons* feathers all kinds of appliqués tassels fringe leather cut-outs funky bottle caps* charms*, etc… *Not recommended for children under 3.
Go To
Introduction,
Chapter One: Getting Started, Chapter Two:
contactus@breakitdowndesign.com
Copyright 2007 by Renee Boley All Rights Reserved
|
||
