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Figuring shoulder strap length measurement for pattern Take the shoulder strap measurement explained on the baby doll dress/top page. Make note of that number (12 for my daughter). This is your shoulder strap pattern measurement. Figuring shoulder strap width measurement for pattern Figure how wide the finished strap is and add any allowance needed to finish sides. For example, if you want the finished strap width to be 1" and a serge rolled hem is used on the sides, add 1/4" to both sides resulting in a total shoulder strap pattern width measurement of 1 1/2" If a rolled hem is used, and there is a 1" finished strap width, then add to pattern 1/2" to each side. This is used to roll over two 1/4" folds on each side so that the total shoulder strap pattern width measurement is 2".
Diagram in 1/4 scale.
Measure horizontally from left to right edge (near top) the shoulder strap width measurement (red dot).
Measure down vertically from red dot your shoulder strap length measurement and place mark (blue dot).
Draw a straight horizontal and vertical line at these markings to connect them into a rectangle.
Label top end with "fold."
Cut out.
Lay paper pattern on top of fabric. Match "fold" side of paper pattern to folded side of fabric. Layer the fabric up (as shown below) before cutting or cut the two straps out separately.
Pin
Cut two straps
At long side raw edges, finish with a serged rolled hem (if preferred)
Or sew a rolled hem by using a sewing machine.
Sew with elastic thread down the center of strap.
Stop sewing row of elastic 1/2" from each end.
When row is completed, lock stitch, leave needle in fabric, lift foot up and pivot. Sew 4 rows of shirring spacing the rows out according to the width of strap and desired look.
When finished make sure elastic thread is secured into fabric before cutting. If not, tie a knot.
Iron down center of ruffle on right side to flatten a bit. Note: Be careful not to lay heat too long on elastic thread as this will dry elastic out and cause it to rot quicker.
Close up
Repeat procedure for other strap.
Place top/dress on person. Make sure side seams of top/dress are lined evenly with sides of body. Pin straps to front and back of top/dress. Note: If strap is too long, don't be alarmed. (heavier fabrics tend to do this), secure threads before cutting by sewing over threads with regular thread. Use a short length stitch. Pull on elastics to make sure these are tacked into fabric. If not, tie them in a knot. Don't forget to leave 1" on each side for a seam allowance and to line the two straps up next to each other to make sure they are the same exact size.
Remove garment (carefully of course) from person. (You may want to use a safety pin if unsure of sticking person). Remove pinned strap from top/dress and remark where strap goes with a pin. Fold over end of strap onto RIGHT SIDE of fabric to hide raw edge.
Pin to top/dress.
Match up side seams to one another. Check to make sure that front and back straps are even with each other. Note: Back straps are usually further apart from each other than front ones.
Sew strap on with right side of fabric facing up. Make sure that strap is at a perfect 90 degree angle to the bodice. Reinforce strap to bodice by sewing back and forth several times when starting and ending stitches.
Click here to finish baby doll dress/top
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Copyright 2007 by Renee Boley All Rights Reserved.
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