Figuring the shoulder sleeve pattern measurement

 

Take the shoulder strap measurement explained on the baby doll dress/top page.    Make note of that number (12 for my daughter).  This is your shoulder sleeve pattern measurement. 

Making the ruffled angel wing sleeve pattern

 

Diagram in 1/4 scale.

Measure from top left corner of pattern paper to right, 4 1/2" and place mark (red dot).

 

Measure down from top left corner the shoulder sleeve pattern measurement and place mark (blue dot).  

 

Where the mark (blue dot) is, measure 2" from the left edge of pattern paper and place another mark (green dot).

 

Draw a straight horizontal line connecting edge of paper to green dot.  

 

 

Draw a straight line from green dot to red dot.  

 

Cut out paper pattern and mark fold at top as shown.

Cutting the fabric

 

Cut two sleeve pattern pieces out on fold.

(You may want to layer the fabric up like shown below before cutting, or you can cut the two sleeves out separately.) 

 

Place pattern piece on top to match the fold end of paper pattern with fold end of fabric.

Pin and cut.

 

Round off winged sleeve as shown. 

 

Don't be alarmed if sleeve is this long.

Sewing and shirring

 

Make a rolled hem with sewing machine or serge a rolled hem. 

Following are the instructions for sewing a rolled hem with the sewing machine: 

Turn over curved side of sleeve 1/8" onto wrong side of fabric. Press. 

 

Turn over again and press.

 

Do the same for straight side of sleeve. 

 

Sew hem of sleeve on both sides.

 

Press flat.

Note:  If curved side puckers a bit, don't worry; this will not show with all the ruffles.

 

 If  a rolled hem is done, start shirring just to the left of this (through one layer of fabric only) on the straight side of the wing pattern. 

If a rolled hem is done with serger, leave 1/4" - 1/2" from the straight side of the wing pattern. 

 

Stop sewing row of elastic 1/2" from each end.

 

When row is completed, lock stitch, leave needle in fabric, lift foot up and pivot. 

Move over about 1/4" to start a new row.  

 

Sew new row 1/4" away from first row. Pull fabric taut. 

 

Sew 4 (or more) rows of shirring; (your preference).  Remember to test this on person for proper fit. 

Repeat procedure for other sleeve. 

 

Attaching sleeves to garment

 

Place top/dress on person. 

Make sure side seams of top/dress line up evenly with sides of body. 

Pin where sleeve goes on front and back of top/dress. 

Note:  If sleeve is too long, don't be alarmed. (heavier fabrics tend to do this), secure threads before cutting by sewing over threads with regular thread. Use a short length stitch.  Pull on elastics to make sure these are tacked into fabric.  Don't forget to leave 1" on each side for seam allowance and to line two sleeves up next to each other to make sure these are the same exact size. 

 

Remove garment (carefully of course) from person wearing garment.  (You may want to use a safety pin if unsure of sticking person). 

Remove pinned sleeve from top/dress and remark where the sleeve is to go with a pin.

 

 

Fold over end of winged sleeve onto RIGHT SIDE to hide raw edge. 

 

Pin to top/dress. 

 

Match up side seams one to another.  Check to make sure that front sleeve and back sleeve are evenly located one to the other,

Note:  Back sleeves are usually further apart from each other than front. 

 

Sew sleeves on with right side of fabric facing up. Make sure that sleeve is at a perfect 90 degree angle to the bodice.  Reinforce sleeve to bodice by sewing back and forth several times when starting and ending stitching. 

 

Click here to finish baby doll dress/top

 

Sexy off the shoulder wrap wing sleeve

The off the shoulder bicep wrap wing sleeve is made from the angel wing sleeve. 

 

Pin one end of the sleeve to the front of the dress/top slanting out towards bicep. 

 

Wrap the other end around the arm and bring around to front.  Tuck into sleeve at top front as shown and pin.

 

Remove garment and sew where pinned. 

Voila!!!

 

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Copyright 2007 by Renee Boley

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