|
The bubble short pattern is made easily by altering the ruffled a-line skirt pattern. Short length: This measurement is taken lengthwise and starts from the waist at the side seam to the desired length for the bubble shorts (ex: my daughter's measurement is 10"). The allowance needed for the bloused bubble hem and design ease is not included in this measurement but is added while making the pattern. Simply measure down to where the bubble shorts end.
Trace onto pattern paper the ruffled a-line skirt pattern(s). If there is one pattern for both the front and back, you'll need to make another one. Label one "bubble shorts front" and the other one "bubble shorts back." Transfer the "fold" and "top" labels.
Note: You'll need a longer piece of pattern paper to construct the bubble shorts "back" pattern piece. Do not cut these out yet.
Altering pattern to make bubble shorts pattern
Diagrams shown in 1/4 scale.
Lets start with front pattern piece. (Skip these next two steps if making shorts for a child that wears a diaper). Measure from the "top/fold" corner 1/2" and place mark (red dot).
Draw a slightly curved line from that marking (red dot) to the waist's side seam as shown. This will be your new front waist.
(Continue on here) Take short length measurement and add 2 1/2" when doing a serged rolled hem or 3 1/4" when doing a rolled hem with a sewing machine. For example if you're doing a serged rolled hem and your short length measurement is 10", add 2 1/2" for a total of 12 1/2". This is your short length pattern measurement.Measure down the side seam this measurement and place mark (black dot).
Draw new hemline.
Measure out on the new hemline and increase the side seam by 1". Place mark (blue dot).
Draw a new side seam and extend hemline to meet new side seam.
Cut pattern out. You are finished with your bubble shorts front pattern.
Take your back pattern piece and measure down your short length pattern measurement (short length plus 2 1/2" if doing a serged rolled hem and 3 1/4" if doing a rolled hem with a sewing machine). The same as you did for the front pattern. Draw new hemline.
Measure out on the hemline increasing the side seam by 2". Place mark (purple dot).
Measure down from the center bottom fold line 2" and place mark (red dot).
Draw a curved line as shown from that marking (red dot) to where the new side seam is (purple dot). This is your new backs hemline.
Draw a straight line from the purple dot up to where the waist and side seam meet. This is your new side seam.
Cut pattern out. You are finished with your bubble shorts back pattern.
Preparing the fabric
As explained in Chapter 1 you'll want to prepare your fabric before cutting.
Lay fabric out on fold. Readjust according to size of bubble shorts paper patterns to get most from fabric. Lay paper patterns on top of fabric. Match "fold" side of paper patterns to folded side of fabric. Pin
Cut out one back and one front pattern piece out of the fabric.
Pin front to back at side seams.
Sew front to back together at side seams, stitching at 5/8" from edge. Finish edges with a zig-zag stitch or serge.
At top raw edge, finish with a serged rolled hem (if preferred). Tip: Always start serging a rolled hem at a side seam.
Or sew a rolled hem by using a sewing machine. Instructions are as follows: Fold over 1/4" onto wrong side of fabric. Press.
Fold over another 1/4" and press again.
Stitch with wrong side of fabric (facing up) as shown.
Close up picture of wrong side of garment.
Special Notes & Tips on Shirring
Shirring the waist of shorts
Place fabric under the foot with the right side of fabric facing up. If garment has a rolled hem (done with a sewing machine) sew at left of stitching already sewn. Do not sew through three layers of fabric; (sew on one layer of fabric only).
If you're sewing on a garment that has a serged rolled hem, start sewing about 1/4 - 3/8" away from the top.
When row is completed, lock stitch, leave needle in fabric, lift foot up and pivot. Move over about 1/4" to start a new row. One can use foot as a guide.
When sewing remember to pull fabric so it lays flat.
Light weight fabric requires less rows of shirring for a nice pretty ruffle. Try on garment after sewing two rows. The more rows sewn, the tighter the garment. To lock the stitch when finished, go back and forth a few times with a very short stitch length. Pull on the elastic thread to make sure it is caught in the fabric. If not, knot it up with another piece of elastic thread or finish off by tying it in a good knot by itself. Cut hanging threads.
Put shorts on person. Check for desired length. If not right length, cut (keeping in mind you'll need to leave enough to hem).
Press side seam before hemming.
Finish the edge by serging
Or by doing a zig-zag stitch, fold over 1/4", press and sew. (Don't forget to take out the elastic sewing thread out of the bobbin and replace with regular thread).
With elastic thread bobbin in machine, place garment under foot of sewing machine RIGHT SIDE FACING UP. Sew elastic thread just as before just to the left of the hem and through one layer of fabric only. Sew one row of elastic thread. This is my recommendation but 2 is also acceptable, and totally depends on the look desired.
Turn bubble shorts wrong side out.
With WRONG SIDE OUT, match up together the side seams on the bottom (hem) part of the shorts.
Locate the center of the front and back by pulling as shown:
Place pins on either side of center pin, without pulling fabric taut, the crotch width of panties for the person you are making them for.
Sew while pulling fabric taut just to the left of elastic, starting with the first pin and stopping with the last. Make sure to backstitch several times when starting and finishing stitching.
Check to make sure leg openings are even.
Push seam over to one side and pin.
Sew so seam will lay flat.
Fini!!!
If any adjustments are needed for a garment or pattern, Click Here.
Go To
Any errors or broken links? Please let us know here, thanks!
contactus@breakitdowndesign.com
Copyright 2007 by Renee Boley All Rights Reserved.
|
|
|