Notes:  When measuring a person, keep the measuring tape taut.  The person should also be wearing the kind of undergarments typically worn under clothes (panties/bra).

Please note: For obvious reasons, my daughter's clothes (used as examples) are left on while measuring.    Also, if you get a pattern measurement, 8.6, simply round up to the nearest 1/4 inch (8.75 or 8 3/4) .   

Waist:   This measurement should be taken at the place the person states their waist is (whether at the actual waist where belly button is or around the hips.

Hips:  Measure around widest part of that area.  The widest area may be more on thighs.  If so, use that measurement. 

Waist to hip:  This measurement is taken lengthwise and starts from where you take the waist measurement (at the side seam) down to hip measurement.

Skirt length:  This measurement is taken lengthwise and starts from where you take the waist measurement (at the side seam) down to desired hem area.   

Figuring ruffled skirt pattern measurements

Take waist measurement size and divide by 3, example (ex.):  My daughter's waist measurement is 26" so 26 divided by 3 = 8.66.  Round 8.66 up to the nearest 1/4" which comes to 8 3/4"

Take waist measurement size and add it to the divided by 3 number (ex:  26 + 8 3/4 = 34 3/4). 

Repeat procedure to find hip pattern measurement.  Here is the formula:

Hip measurement divided by 3

Hip measurement + divided by 3 number.

Add 2 to that number and divide sum by 4.

This is HIP pattern measurement.  Make note of that number. 

Making the ruffled skirt pattern

Diagram in 1/4 scale.

Use pattern paper to mark near top the word "top" (as shown) and at left edge of paper, the word "fold" as shown. 

Measure out horizontally to right of fold and near top of paper pattern the waist pattern measurement. Place mark (red dot).

Measure down from top of pattern paper the waist to hip measurement; place mark (green dot). 

Measure out to right of fold and horizontally to where green dot is located, the hip pattern measurement (purple dot).  Place mark.

Measure down from top of pattern paper the skirt length measurement PLUS 1" if you are making a skirt with regular hem,  or 2" if making a skirt with bubble hem.  Place mark (blue dot).

Using a yard stick, draw a line connecting waist pattern measurement ( red dot) to hip pattern measurement (purple dot) and continue on down to the hem line (blue dot).  This is side seam for the skirt.

At skirt length measurement (blue dot), draw a horizontal line to form a 90 degree angle that extends from "fold" to side seam. 

Measure 1/4" down from the "top/fold" corner (as shown).  Place mark (turquoise dot).

Draw a slightly curved line from turquoise dot to the waist side seam as shown. 

Measure up 1/4" from where the hem and side seam meet and place a mark on the side seam (dark green dot). 

Draw a slightly curved line (just like you did with the waist) from the dark green dot to where the fold and hem meet.  

Cut pattern out.

This is the front and back skirt pattern. 

 Note:  If making a rather short skirt and the person has an "apple bottom", remedy the hike in the back by doing the following:

Make a separate back pattern by tracing this front pattern onto a new piece of pattern paper.  Add anywhere between 1/2" to 1" (depending on how big the apple) to the bottom center of the back skirt pattern (pink dot).  Draw a curved line up to where the hem meets the side seam (dark green dot). 

Mark your patterns "front" and "back."  Cut each pattern out. 

OR

Preparing the fabric

As explained in Chapter 1, prepare fabric before cutting. 

Cutting the fabric

Lay fabric out on fold.  Readjust according to size of skirt paper pattern/s to get most from fabric.

Lay paper pattern/s on top of fabric.  Match "fold" side of paper pattern/s to folded side of fabric. 

Pin

Cut out (one each) back and front pattern piece from fabric.

Pin front to back at side seams.

Sew front to back together at side seams, stitching at 5/8" from edge.

Finish edges with a zig-zag stitch or serge. 

Top of skirt

At top raw edge, finish with a serged rolled hem (if preferred).

Tip:  Always start serging a rolled hem at a side seam. 

Or sew a rolled hem by using a sewing machine. Instructions are as follows:

Fold over 1/4" onto wrong side of fabric.  Press.   

Fold over another 1/4" and press again.

 Stitch with the wrong side of fabric facing up as shown. 

Close up picture of wrong side of garment. 

Special Notes & Tips on Shirring

Shirring the waist

Place fabric under the foot with the right side of fabric facing up.

If garment has a rolled hem (done with a sewing machine) sew at left of stitching already sewn. Do not sew through three layers of fabric; (sew on one layer of fabric only). 

If sewing on a garment that has a serged rolled hem, start sewing about 1/4 - 3/8" away from top.

When row is completed, lock stitch, leave needle in fabric, lift foot up and pivot. 

Move over about 1/4" to start a new row.  

One can use foot as a guide. 

When sewing, remember to pull fabric so it lays flat. 

Light weight fabric requires less rows of shirring for a nice pretty ruffle.  Try on garment after sewing two rows. The more rows sewn, the tighter the garment. 

To lock the stitch when finished, go back and forth a few times with a very short stitch length.  Pull on the elastic thread to make sure it is caught in the fabric.  If not, knot it up with another piece of elastic thread or finish off by tying it in a good knot by itself.  Cut hanging threads. 

Hem

Put garment on person.  Check for desired length.  If not right length, cut (keeping in mind you'll need to leave enough to hem). 

Press side seam flat before hemming. 

For a regular hem, click here

For the bubble hem, click here

Regular hem

At bottom raw edge, finish with a serged rolled hem or zig-zag stitch.   (Don't forget to take out the elastic sewing thread out of the bobbin and replace with regular thread). 

Fold over 1/4" to 1/2", press.

Sew with the wrong side of garment facing up and directly onto the serged or zig-zag stitching. 

Press garment. 

Bubble hem

At bottom raw edge, finish with a serged rolled hem (if preferred)

Or by doing a zig-zag stitch, fold over 1/4", press and sew. (Don't forget to take out the elastic sewing thread out of the bobbin and replace with regular thread). 

With elastic thread bobbin in machine, place garment under foot of sewing machine RIGHT SIDE FACING UP.  Sew elastic thread as before just to the left of the hem and through one layer of fabric only.   Sew one row of elastic thread.  This is my recommendation but 2 is also acceptable, and totally depends on the look desired.

Nice Job (-;

If any adjustments are needed for a garment or pattern, Click Here.