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Notes: When measuring a person, keep measuring tape taut. The person should also be wearing the kind of undergarments typically worn under clothes (panties/bra). Please note: For obvious reasons, my daughter's clothes (used as examples) are left on while measuring. Also, if you get a pattern measurement, 8.6, simply round up to the nearest 1/4 inch ( 8 3/4) .
Chest: Measure around person's widest part of chest.
Upper Chest: Measure above bust where top or dress hangs from.
Hips: Measure around widest part of that area. The widest area may be more on thighs. If so, use that measurement.
Garment Length: Measure lengthwise from top of top/dress to desired hem area. If making garment for a person who has developed in the chest area, measure from top of top/dress; over chest and down to desired hem area. Basically just how a a top/dress would hang on a person.
Shoulder Strap Length: Measure shoulder strap. I
If there is a difference of more than 3" in size between the above chest measurement and the chest measurement, figure the middle number and use that one. Example (ex): If the above chest measurement is 32" and chest measurement is 36", use 34" and then proceed with the formula below to figure the baby doll pattern measurement. Take the above chest measurement and divide that by 2. Ex: My daughter's above chest measurement is 27" so 27 divided by 2 = 13.5. Take the above chest measurement number and add to the divided by 2 number. Ex: 27 + 13.5 = 40.5. Divide that number by 4. Ex: 40.5 divided by 4 = 10.125, which rounds up to 10 1/4 . This is the baby doll pattern measurement. Be sure to make note of that number. Ex: 10 1/4. I 
Diagram in 1/4" scale (according to my daughter's measurements)
Use pattern paper to mark near top and over towards left side the word "top" (as shown) and at left edge of paper, the word "fold" as shown.
Measure out horizontally to the right from fold (near top) the baby doll pattern measurement (red dot).
Measure down (vertically) from red dot to fold at garment's length measurement; (add 1" for the regular hem), When making bubble hem, add 2". (Ex: : If garment's length measurement is 15" and a baby doll dress with a bubble hem is desired, measure down 17".) Place mark (purple dot).
Draw a line connecting red dot to purple dot.
Draw a horizontal line from fold to purple dot.
This is the front and back top/dress pattern. Cut pattern out.
Note: If making a rather short baby doll dress and one has an "apple bottom," the hike in the back is remedied by doing this:
Make a separate back pattern by tracing the pattern onto a new piece of pattern paper. Add anywhere between 1/2" to 1" (depending on how big the apple is) to the bottom center of the back pattern (green dot). Draw a curved line up to where the hem meets the side seam (dark green dot). Label "back" pattern.
Label the other "front".
Cut pattern/s out. Note: Right side of pattern/s will be side seam.
Preparing the fabric
As explained in Chapter 1, prepare fabric before cutting.
Lay fabric out on fold. Readjust according to size of baby doll dress paper pattern to get most from fabric. Lay paper pattern(s) on top of fabric. Match "fold" side of paper pattern to folded side of fabric. Pin
If you have a separate back pattern piece, lay that out also. You'll need to cut out one (each), both back and front pattern piece, from the fabric.
Front and back
Match side seams (right sides together)
Pin front to back at side seams.
Sew front to back together at side seams, stitching at 5/8" from edge.
Finish edges with a zig-zag stitch or serge.
At top raw edge, finish with a serged rolled hem (if preferred). Tip: Always start serging a rolled hem at a side seam.
Or sew a rolled hem by using a sewing machine. Instructions are as follows: Fold over 1/4" onto wrong side of fabric. Press.
Fold over another 1/4" and press again.
Stitch with wrong side of fabric (facing up) as shown.
Close up picture of wrong side of garment.
Special Notes & Tips on Shirring
If garment has a rolled hem (done with a sewing machine) sew with elastic thread at left of stitching already sewn. Do not sew through three layers of fabric. (Sew on one layer of fabric only).
If you're sewing on a garment that has a serged rolled hem, start sewing about 1/4 - 3/8" away from the top.
When row is completed, lock stitch, leave needle in fabric, lift foot up and pivot. Move over about 1/4" to start a new row. One can use the foot as a guide.
When sewing, remember to pull fabric so it lays flat.
Light weight fabric requires less rows of shirring for a nice pretty ruffle. Try on garment after sewing two rows. The more rows sewn, the tighter the garment. To lock the stitch when finished, go back and forth a few times with a very short stitch length. Pull on the elastic thread to make sure it is caught in the fabric. If not, knot it up with another piece of elastic thread or finish off by tying it in a good knot by itself. Cut hanging threads. Photos of right side of shirred garment.
Tip #3: If sewing straps or sleeves on, do so before doing the hem, so garment's length can be determined. Click on one of the following links.
Hem
Put garment on person. Check for desired length. If not the right length, cut (keeping in mind one needs to leave enough room to hem).
Press side seam flat before hemming.
For a regular hem, click here For the bubble hem, click here
Finish edge by serging or doing a zig-zag stitch. (Don't forget remove elastic sewing thread out of bobbin and replace with regular thread). Fold over 1/4" to 1/2", press.
Sew with wrong side of garment facing up and directly onto the serged or zig-zag stitching.
Press garment.
At bottom raw edge, finish with a serged rolled hem.
Or by doing a zig-zag stitch, fold over 1/4", press and sew. (Don't forget to take out the elastic sewing thread out of the bobbin and replace with regular thread).
With elastic thread bobbin in machine, place garment under foot of sewing machine RIGHT SIDE FACING UP. Sew elastic thread just as before just to the left of hem and through one layer of fabric only. Sew one row of elastic thread. (I prefer this but sewing two rows is also acceptable.) It totally depends on the look desired.
Nice Job (-;
If any adjustments are needed for a garment or pattern, Click Here.
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Copyright 2007 by Renee Boley All Rights Reserved.
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